BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO SHOE MAKING TOOLS AND MATERIALS

I remember when I started shoe construction it was so difficult to find all the tools and materials at one place and that’s when I decided to make it easy for those walking on the same path. Below are some basic tools and materials required in shoemaking….Hope this will make it easy for new passionate shoe designers 🙂

MEASURING AND MARKING

Steel Ruler – A ruler strong enough to retain a perfect straight edge for cutting.
Measuring Tape – A flexible tape made from a non-stretch material.

PUNCHING AND MARKING

Stitching Chisels – Features Steel Blades for punching lacing slits
Compass/Wing Divider – A measuring tool that can be opened to any required width and used to create a parallel line as a guide for cutting.
Over Stitcher – It moves along leather to mark the spacing of stitches for smooth, even results.
Multi-hole Punch – A punch for punching holes of different sizes on leather
Adjustable Groover – Used for spacing hand stitching holes and running over completed stitches to give them a machine-sewn look. The groove width is adjustable.
Adjustable Creases – For creating parallel lines and inside borders.

Masking Tape – An adhesive tape with a slight stretch.
Oval Punch – Punches for punching holes of different sizes on leather.
Silver Marking Pen – A pen with silver ink used to mark guidelines on upper pieces.
Awl – A pointed tool used for piercing patterns or materials to create location points as a guide for cutting or stitching.

FASTENING

Waxed Linen Thread – A durable waxed linen thread that works smoothly through the leather.
Tack – Used for securing the upper to the insole in the initial stages of lasting.
Hand Stitching Needle – It has an extra-large needle
Glovers’ Needle – Used for piercing and passing through tough materials such as leather, suede, and vinyl without tearing.
Curved Needle – Used for lacing on leather, especially along sharp edges.

BURNISHING

CMC – Burnishing gum in powder form.
Burnishing Gum – It is applied on leather surfaces or edges for a glossy and smooth finish.
Bone Folder – A tool made from plastic or bone used to assist the turning over and pleating of a folded edge.
Sharpening Stone – A stone rod used to sharpen the edges.
Cleaning Brush – A brush used to clean any dust or dirt.

EDGING

Common Edge Tool – Bevels and rounds off edges of straps and all soft leather.
French Edge Tool – Makes beveled edges at any desired angles including miter-joints.
Emery Board – A board used for polishing and smoothening edges.
NT Dresser – Contains a sanding plate for polishing and smoothening edges.

Leather Edge Paint – Gives a pleasing finish to the edges of leather goods.

HAMMERING

French Pattern Hammer – A hammer that flattens any creases that appear during the lasting process.
Wood Mallet – Used for punching lacing slits on leather.
Folding Hammer – A handheld round-ended hammer used to flatten a folded edge.

CUTTING AND LASTING

Curved Scissors – A pair of scissors used for trimming the lining of the upper and cutting thread.
Leather Scissors – A pair of super sharp blades for cutting lighter weight leather
Self Healing Cutting Mat – A self-healing synthetic cutting surface used for pattern cutting.
Poly Cutting Board – Used as a base to punch into when using stitching chisels.
Lasting Pincer – The lasting pincer grips the upper and pulls it over the insole in the lasting process.

Tack Knife – A knife for removing lasting tacks.
Trimming Knife – Used for removing any irregularities under the shoe after lasting.
Clicking Knife – A curved blade cutting knife designed for cutting leather.
Scalpel – A cutting knife with a very sharp blade, used for pattern cutting.
All-Purpose Leather Knife – A knife used as a skiver. Round beveled, hand sharpened edges.
Round Knife – With a very sharp blade, The round knife is used for cutting leather and pattern.
Skiving Knife – A tool for skiving.
Square Point Knife – A square point blade designed for cutting leather.
Seam Ripper – It’s equipped with both a steel hook & pointed blade for cutting or ripping.
Curved Lip Shoe Knife – A tool with a bent tip to trim shoe soles and uppers with ease.

GLUE

Brush – Used for Brushing rubber adhesive on leather.
Plastic spreader – Used for spreading rubber adhesive on leather.
Rolling Spreader – For applying uniform pressure to the surface of the adhesive.

Plastic Spreader

Rolling Spreader

Adhesive Brush

Adhesive – A rubber solution that is used in upper preparation and a stronger synthetic rubber adhesive is used for sole attaching
All-Purpose Cement – Designed originally for attaching soles, the cement is easy to spread, non-smearing, extremely flexible and versatile.